![]() ![]() a fire alarm breaker might be locked "on"). Breakers have a feature called "Trip-Free": they will trip even if the handle is held in the "on" position. What's the deal with handle-ties? Fairly simple. Watch it and I think your eyes will be opened. This video teases Europeans but it gets the point across very well. To understand what the 1-pole and 2-pole thing is all about, you need to understand the North American approach to 120V and 240V power. I bought a bunch by accident, and there's no application for them except small travel trailers (TT30 outlets). Many will appear to fit, but will actually arc and destroy the bus.ģ0A/120V breakers are practically useless. You must use breakers that are specifically listed for your breaker panel. It's true that single-pole breakers over 30A basically don't exist, but that's because delivering thousands of watts of power is more efficient at 240V (voltage drop is less of a factor), not because it's not possible.įinally, "Home Depot" is not a breaker type. You can have two-pole 15A breakers, two-pole 200A breakers (or more), and many increments in between. This is purely due to voltage, and has nothing to do with current. ![]() It should be easier (and maybe cheaper) to just get the two-pole unit (instead of two singles plus a handle tie). The dryer is a mixed 240V/120V load and requires common trip which is only available from a two-pole unit. There are some cases (mostly multi-wire branch circuits) where it is/was legal to handle-tie two adjacent single-pole breakers, but that's not relevant here. You'd also run the risk of overloading neutral. Your dryer motor and light might work, but the heating element will do nothing. Single-space "tandem" breakers won't do because both halves will be on the same leg of your service, giving 0V difference between the two load terminals. To provide a 240V circuit, you must have a two-space, two-pole breaker.Ī single-pole breaker obviously can supply only 120V loads, as it has only one terminal. ![]()
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